Contenu du sommaire : Montagne et alimentation : dynamiques et enjeux actuels dans les montagnes européennes

Mountain regions are currently faced with a dual environmental and socioeconomic challenge. As markers of climate change, their transition is often examined from the tourism perspective (François et al., 2010). However, these regions are also places where people live and work, involving cross-cutting residential, productive, agricultural, energy-related and other strategies, which can provide leverage for their transition towards greater sustainability. Based on the empirical analysis of the 100% Valposchiavo initiative, implemented in the valley of the same name, this paper aims to contribute to reflections on potential food-related transition strategies for mountain regions. In this Italian-speaking valley located within the German-speaking Swiss Canton of Graubünden (Grisons), the 100% Valposchiavo initiative, aimed at promoting local organic production, has gradually become a regional project. Through the processes underlying the initiative, this example shows how food matters, not initially explicitly addressed in the agricultural project, and subsequently promoted through the branding of local product through the tourism sector, are ultimately emerging from the initiative, even though not all food-related challenges are addressed.

Mountain regions are currently faced with a dual environmental and socioeconomic challenge. As markers of climate change, their transition is often examined from the tourism perspective (François et al., 2010). However, these regions are also places where people live and work, involving cross-cutting residential, productive, agricultural, energy-related and other strategies, which can provide leverage for their transition towards greater sustainability. Based on the empirical analysis of the 100% Valposchiavo initiative, implemented in the valley of the same name, this paper aims to contribute to reflections on potential food-related transition strategies for mountain regions. In this Italian-speaking valley located within the German-speaking Swiss Canton of Graubünden (Grisons), the 100% Valposchiavo initiative, aimed at promoting local organic production, has gradually become a regional project. Through the processes underlying the initiative, this example shows how food matters, not initially explicitly addressed in the agricultural project, and subsequently promoted through the branding of local product through the tourism sector, are ultimately emerging from the initiative, even though not all food-related challenges are addressed.

The current paper belongs to a set of ongoing multi-scalar and trans-disciplinary research studies investigating potential approaches for regenerating rural areas in the Alpine areas of Italy, which have been suffering for years from underused phenomena (Balducci, 2019; Gretter et al., 2018a).The paper focuses mainly on the territory of the Autonomous Province of Trento to investigate how farmers face the current challenges in different ways while looking for sustainable and viable systems from the ecological and socio-economic perspectives (Bender & Haller, 2017). Trentino's cultural context reflects a long tradition of specific law rules, which have granted a degree of self-government capabilities in various sectors such as territorial planning and land use policies, culture and school system, or social services (Gretter et al., 2018b).Rather than present specific results based on deep quantity-qualitative analysis, the goal of the manuscript is to overview the peculiar features of this alpine territory, opening a series of inputs of reflection and discussions. Some have already been locally activated, but most must be addressed in a broader and systemic approach, involving a more comprehensive series of stakeholders, moving from public authorities to citizens.In this manuscript, we highlight ongoing experiences that the Trentino Agro-food value chain faces today and how this impact the territory and its cultural landscapes' preservation.

The current paper belongs to a set of ongoing multi-scalar and trans-disciplinary research studies investigating potential approaches for regenerating rural areas in the Alpine areas of Italy, which have been suffering for years from underused phenomena (Balducci, 2019; Gretter et al., 2018a).The paper focuses mainly on the territory of the Autonomous Province of Trento to investigate how farmers face the current challenges in different ways while looking for sustainable and viable systems from the ecological and socio-economic perspectives (Bender & Haller, 2017). Trentino's cultural context reflects a long tradition of specific law rules, which have granted a degree of self-government capabilities in various sectors such as territorial planning and land use policies, culture and school system, or social services (Gretter et al., 2018b).Rather than present specific results based on deep quantity-qualitative analysis, the goal of the manuscript is to overview the peculiar features of this alpine territory, opening a series of inputs of reflection and discussions. Some have already been locally activated, but most must be addressed in a broader and systemic approach, involving a more comprehensive series of stakeholders, moving from public authorities to citizens.In this manuscript, we highlight ongoing experiences that the Trentino Agro-food value chain faces today and how this impact the territory and its cultural landscapes' preservation.

In the 1950s, the Limousin Mountain region was characterized by mixed crop and livestock farming, produced mainly for local consumption. Over the past 70 years, however, this small area of the Massif Central has since specialized in breeding cattle for export, breaking the link between agriculture and the local food system. At the same time, physical labor productivity has continued to grow, leading to the massive abandonment of the moors and peat bogs, the region's pastoral ecosystems. In contrast to these dynamics, for nearly ten years a small group of farmers has been developing agroecological systems, putting native vegetation at the center of feeding their herds. While these systems address agroecological and food transition concerns, they are affected by the industry's normal standards, which are not adapted to their products. The farmers have therefore had to turn to short supply chains and more local outlets. Local markets nevertheless have their limits and encourage a closer collaboration between breeders and butchers as well as reflection on the stakes of food equity in declining rural areas like the Limousin Mountains.

In the 1950s, the Limousin Mountain region was characterized by mixed crop and livestock farming, produced mainly for local consumption. Over the past 70 years, however, this small area of the Massif Central has since specialized in breeding cattle for export, breaking the link between agriculture and the local food system. At the same time, physical labor productivity has continued to grow, leading to the massive abandonment of the moors and peat bogs, the region's pastoral ecosystems. In contrast to these dynamics, for nearly ten years a small group of farmers has been developing agroecological systems, putting native vegetation at the center of feeding their herds. While these systems address agroecological and food transition concerns, they are affected by the industry's normal standards, which are not adapted to their products. The farmers have therefore had to turn to short supply chains and more local outlets. Local markets nevertheless have their limits and encourage a closer collaboration between breeders and butchers as well as reflection on the stakes of food equity in declining rural areas like the Limousin Mountains.

Wolves' return to France since 1992 highlights the contradictory injunctions and the overlooked theoretical and political ideas as regards the relationship between biodiversity and food that mountainous regions are faced with. Government and regulatory responses have not yet succeeded in overcoming the conflicts brought about by the presence of wolves in the day-to-day lives of those living in mountainous regions. How can we transition from a mere adaptation of national sectoral policies on a territorial scale to the development of an actual territorial approach to the conservation of biodiversity, while taking account of the experiences and needs of inhabitants and players, and the specific challenges faced by such territories as regards food? By conducting a survey on the role played by agropastoralism in the development of mountainous regions, and cross-examining biodiversity and food issues, our territorial approach hypothesis raises the question of a collective debate regarding the future of such regions. In this study, we explain the work carried out since 2019 in the context of a research-action-creation project in Belledonne – RECIBIOLDAL – which is based partly on a long-term survey attempting to understand the relations between biodiversity and food in terms of how the landscape has evolved since 1920, and partly on the creation of a narrative surrounding current farming and food practices, with a view to understanding relations between inhabitants, both human and non-human. Lastly, we will look into how the care afforded to these links and various relationships can contribute towards discussion surrounding a territorial approach to wolf and food management.

Wolves' return to France since 1992 highlights the contradictory injunctions and the overlooked theoretical and political ideas as regards the relationship between biodiversity and food that mountainous regions are faced with. Government and regulatory responses have not yet succeeded in overcoming the conflicts brought about by the presence of wolves in the day-to-day lives of those living in mountainous regions. How can we transition from a mere adaptation of national sectoral policies on a territorial scale to the development of an actual territorial approach to the conservation of biodiversity, while taking account of the experiences and needs of inhabitants and players, and the specific challenges faced by such territories as regards food? By conducting a survey on the role played by agropastoralism in the development of mountainous regions, and cross-examining biodiversity and food issues, our territorial approach hypothesis raises the question of a collective debate regarding the future of such regions. In this study, we explain the work carried out since 2019 in the context of a research-action-creation project in Belledonne – RECIBIOLDAL – which is based partly on a long-term survey attempting to understand the relations between biodiversity and food in terms of how the landscape has evolved since 1920, and partly on the creation of a narrative surrounding current farming and food practices, with a view to understanding relations between inhabitants, both human and non-human. Lastly, we will look into how the care afforded to these links and various relationships can contribute towards discussion surrounding a territorial approach to wolf and food management.

Throughout the 20th century, the development of the Vicdessos valley (department of Ariège, French Pyrenees) was oriented almost exclusively towards the aluminum industry, leading to the decline and then total disappearance of local cheese production. Once renowned, Auzat cheese, made from sheep and then cow's milk, was an important resource in the local economy until the middle of the 20th century. Based on documentary research, interviews and ethnographic observations, this article traces the social biography of this cheese since the middle of the 19th century. It analyzes the conditions of the decline of its production and the blurring of its memory. While, for the last twenty years, this post-industrial valley has turned towards the development of tourism, the article provides an understanding of the constraints that have prevented any renewal of cheese production until recently. Indeed, since the end of the 2010s, several initiatives have emerged, without the link with the valley's cheese-making past being cultivated for the moment. These initiatives show the new favorable conditions, but also the persistent obstacles, to the relocation of food circuits in this post-industrial rural territory.

Throughout the 20th century, the development of the Vicdessos valley (department of Ariège, French Pyrenees) was oriented almost exclusively towards the aluminum industry, leading to the decline and then total disappearance of local cheese production. Once renowned, Auzat cheese, made from sheep and then cow's milk, was an important resource in the local economy until the middle of the 20th century. Based on documentary research, interviews and ethnographic observations, this article traces the social biography of this cheese since the middle of the 19th century. It analyzes the conditions of the decline of its production and the blurring of its memory. While, for the last twenty years, this post-industrial valley has turned towards the development of tourism, the article provides an understanding of the constraints that have prevented any renewal of cheese production until recently. Indeed, since the end of the 2010s, several initiatives have emerged, without the link with the valley's cheese-making past being cultivated for the moment. These initiatives show the new favorable conditions, but also the persistent obstacles, to the relocation of food circuits in this post-industrial rural territory.

Gardening and self-consumption practices face deep changes related to food transition in rural areas - the mountainous area Auvergne Rhône-Alpes region is no exception. Recent research about the role of gardens in daily consumption, mainly focuses on urban gardens. In this context, this paper aims to enlighten the role of gardens in food practices of the rural population living in intermediate areas of the mountain - the “mid-moutains”. It is based on research conducted as part of the Jardin'R project. We show that the garden is a gateway to individual and collective self-consumption practices in rural areas. Then we analyze the part these practices play in food policies conducted in our case studies. Finally, we show that reinvestment in self-consumption practices in rural mountains leads to their promotion as an element of the food heritage of these territories.

Gardening and self-consumption practices face deep changes related to food transition in rural areas - the mountainous area Auvergne Rhône-Alpes region is no exception. Recent research about the role of gardens in daily consumption, mainly focuses on urban gardens. In this context, this paper aims to enlighten the role of gardens in food practices of the rural population living in intermediate areas of the mountain - the “mid-moutains”. It is based on research conducted as part of the Jardin'R project. We show that the garden is a gateway to individual and collective self-consumption practices in rural areas. Then we analyze the part these practices play in food policies conducted in our case studies. Finally, we show that reinvestment in self-consumption practices in rural mountains leads to their promotion as an element of the food heritage of these territories.

This article looks at the way in which the agri-food sectors of the peri-urban mountains are linked to the metropolis, using the case of Grenoble and the massifs that surround the city. First, a historical reading highlights the evolution, over time, of the relationship between livestock farming and the city, with the transition from a context of pressure on the supply of fresh produce (particularly milk) to a gradual de-territorialization of the sectors and, more recently, changes that increasingly favor local sectors. This recomposition is analyzed, in the second part, by observing the roles of actors at different levels of the life of the products, from the farmer to the consumer. We show that farmers in the peri-urban mountains have considerably changed their production models to adapt to the new demands of the nearby city. In the third part, we propose a geographical reading of these city-mountain relations through livestock farming, in which we show that the massifs surrounding Grenoble do not all have the same relationship with the city. In conclusion, we argue that the relationship between mountain livestock and the metropolis is part of interterritoriality, but also that it allows the emergence of specific agricultural models and agri-food circuits.

This article looks at the way in which the agri-food sectors of the peri-urban mountains are linked to the metropolis, using the case of Grenoble and the massifs that surround the city. First, a historical reading highlights the evolution, over time, of the relationship between livestock farming and the city, with the transition from a context of pressure on the supply of fresh produce (particularly milk) to a gradual de-territorialization of the sectors and, more recently, changes that increasingly favor local sectors. This recomposition is analyzed, in the second part, by observing the roles of actors at different levels of the life of the products, from the farmer to the consumer. We show that farmers in the peri-urban mountains have considerably changed their production models to adapt to the new demands of the nearby city. In the third part, we propose a geographical reading of these city-mountain relations through livestock farming, in which we show that the massifs surrounding Grenoble do not all have the same relationship with the city. In conclusion, we argue that the relationship between mountain livestock and the metropolis is part of interterritoriality, but also that it allows the emergence of specific agricultural models and agri-food circuits.